Louis Vuitton’s Spring Summer 2027 menswear show this week was not a passing nod to surf culture. Men’s Creative Director Pharrell Williams built the entire set around it, a 26-foot-high wave constructed with real circulating water, rising over a sand runway in the middle of Paris. Well-regarded free surfer Mikey February appeared in the cinematic prelude and campaign. The collection itself ran through wetsuit textures, weathered denim, beaded bombers and logoed surfboards, with Louis Vuitton also committing to a Coral Gardeners reef restoration partnership in French Polynesia.
The images ricocheted across social media and the broader internet within hours, drawing reaction from both inside and outside the surf community. Some praised the show as a long overdue validation of surf culture’s influence on global fashion. Others questioned what it means for a luxury house with no real ties to the water to stage its biggest seasonal moment around it.
SESO reached out to surf industry leaders to get their unfiltered, quick takes on the show and what Louis Vuitton’s full embrace of surf imagery means for the business and culture. Here is what they told us.
Ryan Hitzel, Founder and Chief Brand Officer, Roark
“This illustrates the potency of surf culture and fashion as it regenerates for the next generation of consumers. For Pharrell, it was about the feeling. As a skateboarder, he’s always been close, but his connection to the pool in Virginia Beach really inspired him. I think it’s great, a validator of how powerful our culture can be.”
Pat Tenore, Founder and CEO, Tenore
“It’s not detrimental or negative around surf but highlights how cultured the surf world is. How can you deny the beauty of that standing wave in the show? It was clever, as well as Alex Israel’s part in it and Tenore brand advocate Kani Stewart’s. Beyond stoked for them, as well as Mikey February and Brent Bielmann’s ocean video and photography. They obviously did their homework and involved core people who live, breathe and are surfing. How can you hate on that? Who hasn’t been influenced by Pharrell or Louis Vuitton?
“There is a contradiction between what surf means to the core community versus high fashion, but the world is a better place with surfing in all forms being pushed in all forms. If it’s not for you, rather than throwing eggs, make yourself an omelet and save your energy for what’s important to you.
“I don’t think it waters surf down, just adds more color and a different perspective. Just the fact that surfing impacts so many forms, from high fashion to music, is a plus. I’m not in the mood for haters. Sometimes I think people should just enjoy something beautiful, and I must say it was beautiful.
“The word you used was trend, and those come up and down. If you stay true to yourself and authentic, as the surf community is, you don’t really spend much time thinking of trends. Everyone is entitled to their perspective. Trends come and go but shouldn’t matter at the end of the day. Being authentic is timeless. Trends will come and go but surfing will always be timeless.”
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Evan Slater, Chief Marketing Officer, Sun Bum
“I’m surprised to see how many vocal haters there are in the comments online. Where were all these passionate saviors of surf culture when licensing conglomerate Authentic acquired the souls of just about every major surf brand from the past 40-plus years?
“This is life after death. For all those who care so much about preserving what surfing’s given to so many of us, I recommend welcoming everyone to the bonfire so we can build a new and reimagined surf culture out of the ashes.
“Bravo to Pharrell and LV for taking a big swing and including icons like Mikey February on such a high-profile stage. The LV SS27 runway show will not affect your dawn patrol at C-Street, not even the dude in the full suit carrying an e-bike. I promise.”
Candy Harris, Founder and CEO, Unlisted Brand Lab
“I loved seeing surf through Pharrell’s perspective and was excited to see him tap into surf culture’s influence for his Spring/Summer ’27 collection. He did our industry a great service. He used his own interpretation of surf to signal to the world the beauty, mystique, style and aspirational qualities that exist in the lifestyle we embody.
“The diversity he portrayed, the design aesthetic he created and the way he put surf back on the lips of today’s most influential tastemakers in fashion, media, entertainment and pop culture are huge wins for our industry.
“As for the presentation, this is what runway shows are all about. Creative interpretations and visual experiences that make you feel something. Before a single piece of clothing appeared, you were already transported by the set alone. He brought incredible creativity and care to how it was executed, from the campaign creative with Brick Howze to the flowing water wave set, an art installation all by itself.
“In my opinion, he set in motion the biggest opportunity for our industry to capitalize on. I’m excited to see how brands in the space make the most of the attention.”
Paul Naude, Founder and CEO, Vissla
“For Pharrell Williams, who comes from skate and understands the California lifestyle, it’s not surprising, he certainly understands the cool factor. Second, the set design was unbelievable, it was insane, it shows what can be done with budget. Third, a lot of haters online are calling it out, but there is a positive there, too. The core audience that’s aspirational about authentic surf culture is protective over it, and that’s super positive.
“A similar thing happened with the Vissla and Christian Dior wetsuit collab. Haters were super vocal. At first, we were disappointed, then we turned it around to a good thing. The core audience wants to protect the boundaries of authentic surf culture.
“On the other side, the exposure to a new audience of surf as a theme is really positive. The product on the runway show is their interpretation, which has less credibility in terms of authentic surf style, but as a theme, it’s really positive for the aspirational market out there that we all know is far, far bigger than the core market.
“Lastly, using Mikey February, arguably the world’s best free surfer, I thought was a great move. I think that’s really good for surfing. Is Louis Vuitton going to encroach on market share in our space? Of course not. Their interpretation in terms of product design is not closely linked to our side, they put their touch to it, and I thought is really cool.
“The set for the runway show was absolutely off the charts, it was unbelievable. Who can’t appreciate that? Hats off to Pharrell Williams, he killed it. The amount of exposure this is getting globally is mind boggling. This industry could never generate that amount of exposure.”
Ryan Mangan, SVP, Quiksilver and Billabong
“When a brand the size of Louis Vuitton builds an entire collection around surf, complete with a scroll-stopping wave breaking over a sand runway, that’s not a passing reference. Think back to the early 2000s, when surf industry meant long boardshorts and the culture sat squarely in the mainstream through fashion, X Games and MTV.
“It also matters that it’s Pharrell’s creative direction making the case. He put $350 million behind the Atlantic Park Surf project in Virginia Beach and a program that gives local kids free surf lessons. When the person platforming surf on the Louis Vuitton runway is also building the wave pool and supporting the next generation, that’s not dilution. It’s investment, and it’s one more sign the momentum is firmly on surf’s side.”
Pat O’Connell, President, Florence Marine X
“i thought it was incredible. The scale, the thought and product looked first class. I wish I was there!”
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